Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5: anniversary manifesto

After months of speculation, the Swiss manufacturer from Le Brassus concluded its 150th anniversary celebrations (1875–2025) with a release that market analysts consider more than just an anniversary gadget. The Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 is the engineering culmination of a decade of watchmaking research and experimentation.

When Audemars Piguet celebrated its 1800th anniversary in 2025, collectors and investors expected fireworks. the brand, currently headed by Ilaria Resta, chose a path of visual restraint combined with technical bravura. The RD#5 (ref. 26545XT), unveiled in October 2025, is not a baroque display of opulence, but a cool, engineering calculation of millimeters and the laws of physics. As Tracey Llewellyn of the British Revolution Watch noted, this launch "seems less a commemoration and more a manifesto," intended to define the direction of precision mechanics for the coming decades [1].

Back to "Jumbo"

The key to understanding this new model is its case. In the world of luxury sports watches, the term "Jumbo" refers to the historical size of 39 mm, defined by Gerald Genta in 1972. Over the years, complications (additional functions of the movement) have forced watches to increase in diameter and thickness, often compromising their ergonomics.

The RD#5 breaks this impasse. Engineers managed to cram two of the most prestigious and space-consuming complications – a flying tourbillon and a flyback chronograph – into a case measuring 39 mm in diameter and just 8.1 mm thick. As SJX Watches, this is the same size as the RD#3 (a tourbillon without a stopwatch), representing an unprecedented achievement in miniaturization [2]. This is a result that Mark Kauzlarich of Hodinkee has called "a return to the most wearable watch on the market," emphasizing that this time, the technical advancement hasn't come at the expense of wearer comfort [3].

Anatomy of the Caliber 8100 and new materials

The heart of the RD#5 is a new movement designated 8100. Unlike standard modular designs, where layers of additional functions are added to the basic movement, the Caliber 8100 was designed as an integrated whole, allowing it to maintain a record-breakingly flat profile.

An equally significant innovation can be found in the materials used. Audemars Piguet didn't limit itself to titanium. According to industry sources, the design combines it with elements made of palladium-bonded metallic glass (Bulk Metallic Glass – BMG) [2]. This amorphous alloy is exceptionally hard and scratch-resistant, giving the bezel a distinctive shine that contrasts with the matte finish of the rest of the case.

It's worth noting that the watch's dial, crafted in the brand's signature blue Tapisserie pattern, serves a camouflage function in this model. Instead of exposing each mode, AP opted for a discreet approach. The only clues to the mechanism's complexity are the tourbillon cage at six o'clock and the subtle placement of the chronograph counters.

End of the RD era?

The RD#5 is, according to the brand's official announcements, the final chapter in the Research & Development saga. It concludes a series of intricate works and bold watchmaking experiments, including:

– presented as the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, model RD#1: it revolutionized the acoustics of timepieces; thanks to the case acting like a stringed instrument, the clarity and volume of the sound were unprecedented in waterproof wristwatches;

– the RD#2 model from 2018, which set a new standard for thin perpetual calendars: its mechanism with a three-layer architecture enclosed in a single plane housed a complex movement in a case just 6.3 mm thick;

– the RD#3, introduced in 2022, is a triumph of miniaturization: watchmakers have managed to fit a newly developed, self-winding flying tourbillon into an ultra-thin “Jumbo” case (8.1 mm), while maintaining its historical proportions;

– known as the Universelle, model RD#4 in the Code 11.59 case: in 2023, this movement became the magnum opus of the manufacture, integrating over 1,100 components supporting as many as 23 complications (including the Grande Sonnerie and the perpetual calendar) in an exceptionally ergonomic and easy-to-use format.

Currently, the RD#5 combines the experience gained with the RD#3 and RD#4, transferring it to the field of stopwatches. This sends a clear signal to the market: the laboratory testing period has ended, and the developed technologies will now gradually enter mass production, although the RD#5 itself is limited to just 150 pieces [4].

Market context

The decision to limit the production run to 150 pieces makes the RD#5 a near-theoretical commodity from the perspective of the average buyer. However, for luxury market analysts, the more important message Audemars Piguet sends to its competitors – particularly Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin – is the message Audemars Piguet sends to its competitors in particular. In its anniversary year, the company didn't delve into its archives to create a simple vintage reissue, but invested in a new caliber.

Ilaria Resta, CEO of AP, emphasized "innovation as tradition" in her statements surrounding the anniversary. In the case of the RD#5, this is borne out by the facts. This watch proves that even in the saturated market of so-called integrated bracelet sports watches, the guild's masters still have something to compete for.

Verdict

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 isn't for everyone, not least because of its prohibitive price and availability. It's a cool, technical instrument. Purists might find titanium too light, and the combination of a tourbillon and chronograph unnecessary. However, as a culmination of 150 years of brand history, this model delivers: proving that the "Jumbo" can still be a platform for innovation, not just a nostalgic relic of the 1970s.

Sources:

1. Llewellyn, T. (2025). Audemars Piguet Concludes RD Series With Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Revolution Watch.
2. SJX (2025). Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5 with Palladium BMG Case. SJX Watches.
3. Kauzlarich, M. (2025). Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#5. Hodinkee.
4. Audemars Piguet Official Website (2025). Royal Oak RD#5 Technical Specifications.

Photos: audemarspiguet.com

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