Carnival in Venice – a time when the city goes back several centuries

February 11, 2025

The beginnings of the Venetian carnival

Carnival originated in Venice in the 11th century as a pre-Lenten celebration. It reached its peak popularity during the Baroque period, when masks and costumes allowed residents to forget about everyday worries and social status. In those days, carnival lasted for several months, and its splendor attracted aristocrats from all over Europe. Today, after a centuries-long hiatus, carnival once again illuminates Venice, transporting us directly to the golden age of the Venetian Republic.

A journey to the heart of carnival

The trip to Venice wasn't spontaneous. It was planned like an intricate puzzle, with every element having to work together. As a fashion designer, I spent months creating costumes that would combine Baroque splendor with Polish folklore. I was accompanied by a group of friends fascinated by Carnival and eager to immerse themselves in the magic of the event. From the airport, an elegant limousine took us to the lagoon, where we boarded a motor yacht. During the cruise, we enjoyed Bellini cocktails. A blend of prosecco and a purée of glossy, ripe peaches. This subtle flavor perfectly complemented the atmosphere of anticipation. Venice was slowly waking up to nightlife. Palaces reflected in the water, and streetlights cast a warm glow on the stone quays. Every bend in the canal offered a new perspective and captivated us with beautiful architectural images. We felt as if we were transcending reality.

Arrival at The Gritti Palace

We arrived at The Gritti Palace Hotel, a jewel of Venetian Gothic architecture, where our Carnival celebrations were to begin. The hotel lobby was captivated by frescoes depicting mythological scenes. The suite was decorated with silk fabrics and antique furniture. Every detail seemed to whisper, "Get ready for something extraordinary." And that's when the real fun began. One of the suitcases—the most important one, containing our unique outfits—was left on the yacht, which sailed to Mestre. The ball at the historic Palazzo Pisani Moretta was scheduled to begin in an hour, and we had nothing to wear.

Costumes and outfit selection

Fortunately, the hotel staff quickly found a solution. They suggested colorful costumes featuring the distinctive diamond shapes of Harlequin, an iconic Venetian Carnival figure. It's a vibrant mosaic of triangular or diamond-shaped patterns in vibrant colors like red, green, blue, and yellow. The costume is complemented by a close-fitting mask with a playful expression and a distinctive black cap, often adorned with bells. The costume symbolizes playfulness and cunning, reflecting the playful and cunning nature of this character, straight from the Commedia dell'Arte. We could also choose the Bauta, an elegant costume consisting of a black cloak, triangular hat, and the distinctive white mask covering the entire face, which in ancient times allowed Venetians to remain anonymous, regardless of social status. However, for this evening, we decided to be Harlequins.

A walk through Venice in the carnival atmosphere

Within moments, we found ourselves in St. Mark's Square, where from the very first moment we felt as if we were acting in a play. Venice during Carnival is more than just a city—it's a vast open-air theater. Walking through Venice's narrow streets and vast squares, you feel like the hero of a story from the past, and the gold embroidery shimmering in the lamplight further creates an atmosphere of elegance and mystery.

Il Ballo del Doge ball at Palazzo Pisani Moretta

Palazzo Pisani Moretta, where the Il Ballo del Doge Ball took place, was the epitome of Venetian splendor – filled with candlelight, exquisite decorations, and classical music. It was like something out of a fairy tale. Enormous crystal chandeliers cast a glow on the ornate ceilings, and the sounds of music filled every corner of the hall. The guests' costumes were dazzling – lace, embroidery, cloaks, masks… everything resembled a spectacle in which each participant played a role.

The Dance of the Jesters and an Unexpected Meeting

To the rhythm of a waltz, somewhat bemused, we entered the magnificently decorated hall, where in the center a multicolored crowd was whirling in dance, and costumes adorned with gold, lace, and multicolored embroidery sparkled with a rainbow of colors. Suddenly, another harlequin stood opposite us, bowing with exquisite elegance. We stopped and stared at him for a moment in silent surprise. The figure leaned forward and whispered mysteriously in Italian, "We are not alone here.".

The Angel's Flight – the culminating moment of the carnival

With a large group of courtiers, led by a troop of dancing harlequins, we returned to St. Mark's Square to witness the flight of the angel (Volo dell'Angelo). Amidst the cheering crowd and to the accompaniment of music from the church bell tower, another harlequin descended the rope. He must have spotted us from above, because he joined our procession immediately after touching the cobblestones.

The Magic of Venice After Dark

As the sun began to set over the lagoon and the city pulsated with the lights of balls and the sound of music, it was easy to believe that Venice was a place where dreams come true and where it was worth forgetting reality, even for a moment, and allowing oneself to be seduced by the magic of masks and Venetian splendor.

Morning at Caffé Florian

In the morning, as tradition dictates, we went for coffee at Caffé Florian in St. Mark's Square. This café is a gem of Venice with over 300 years of tradition. The coffee, served on silver trays with beautiful snacks, made you want to linger there for as long as possible.